Relative humidity in the rooms you are complaining about, what the system does to it through a cycle, and how much air is moving. EPA says below 60 percent, ideally 30 to 50. Those readings decide the conversation, not a product sheet.
Indoor Air Quality Services in Jacksonville, FL
Air Quality Testing and Whole House Dehumidifier Systems
In this climate, indoor air quality is mostly a moisture problem wearing a different hat. We measure the humidity and the airflow first, find where the water is actually coming from, and tell you plainly which of the add-ons being sold to you would do anything at all.
Licensed & insured — FL CAC036942
Indoor air quality in Jacksonville
Indoor Air Quality for Jacksonville Homes
Air quality work in Florida is mostly moisture work. The EPA tells homeowners to keep indoor relative humidity below 60 percent and ideally between 30 and 50, and a Jacksonville summer spends its whole length trying to push your house past that. That one number explains most of what people call us about: the musty smell when the system kicks on, the windows that fog, the closet that grows something on the wall, the room that still feels clammy at 74 degrees. So we start by measuring what the humidity in your house actually is, and where the water is coming from, before anybody talks about equipment.
Great Dane Heating & Air has kept Jacksonville and Duval County comfortable for more than twenty years. We are a family company — the people who answer the phone are the people who show up — with upfront pricing, comfort techs who treat your home like their own, and a soft spot for shelter dogs. Every job we finish gives back to the Jacksonville Humane Society.
BBB accredited business
- 20+ years in Jacksonville
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Indoor Air Quality Testing Jacksonville, FL
Signs of Poor Indoor Air Quality
Six complaints we hear constantly, and what is normally behind each one. Tap whichever sounds like your house.
Your thermostat measures temperature, not moisture. An oversized system cools the air fast enough to satisfy the thermostat before the coil has run long enough to pull water out of it, so the house reaches 74 degrees and stays damp. The Department of Energy names oversizing directly as the reason it produces clammy homes. The fix is very rarely a bigger system.
That is almost always water somewhere it should not be — a blocked condensate drain, a pan holding water, wet insulation, or a duct sweating in a hot attic. The EPA is specific that wet or damp materials dried within 24 to 48 hours will in most cases not grow mold, which is why this is worth chasing quickly rather than covering with a scented filter. An air cleaner will not fix it either: the EPA states that air cleaners and HVAC filters do not solve mold problems, because they do not address the moisture.
Two things worth checking. First, what the filter actually is: MERV comes from ASHRAE Standard 52.2, and only MERV 13 and above has to remove at least half of the smallest particles it is tested on, where MERV 11 only has to manage a fifth. Second, how often the system runs — the EPA points out that an HVAC filter only filters while the blower is moving air, usually less than a quarter of the time.
Ducts. The Department of Energy puts typical losses at 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through a home’s duct system, gone to leaks, holes and poorly connected runs. In a vented Jacksonville attic the air lost on the supply side is replaced by air pulled in on the return side, and that make-up air comes from wherever the leak happens to be. A leaky duct system is not only a comfort problem — it is the route attic air takes into your rooms.
Newer houses here are built tight deliberately. The Florida Energy Code requires whole-house mechanical ventilation once a dwelling tests tighter than three air changes per hour, because past that point the building no longer leaks enough to ventilate itself. Ventilation air in Florida arrives warm and wet, though, so it has to be conditioned rather than merely introduced — Florida Solar Energy Center researchers concluded supplemental dehumidification is required in high-performance homes in humid climates regardless of the ventilation rate.
Worth knowing even if your heating is all electric. Florida Statute 553.885 requires an approved, operational carbon monoxide alarm within 10 feet of each room used for sleeping, in every building or addition built on or after 1 July 2008 that has a fossil-fuel-burning heater or appliance, a fireplace, or an attached garage. That last trigger catches out a great many all-electric Jacksonville homeowners.
Not sure whether you’re looking at a repair or a replacement? Run it through our honest read →
Before you call anyone
Indoor Air Quality Checks You Can Do Yourself
Air quality in Florida is mostly a humidity problem, and you can measure it yourself in about ten minutes. A hygrometer costs less than a filter does. Here is what the reading actually means.
- 1Buy a hygrometer. Any of them. It does not need to be clever.
- 2Put it in the room that feels worst, not in the hallway.
- 3Read it in the afternoon, then again first thing in the morning.
- 4If it sits above 60, call us. If it sits at 45, your problem is not humidity — and we will say so.
Uncommon here, and usually only for a stretch in January with the heat running. Not really a Florida problem.
The band the EPA names. The CDC puts it tighter still: no higher than 50 percent, all day long.
Not an emergency, but the system is not keeping up with the moisture load. Worth looking at before summer.
Above this, mold has what it needs. Something is wrong — usually sizing, a drain, or a duct.
A reading that will not come down usually has one of three causes.
It cools fast, the thermostat is satisfied, and the coil never runs long enough to pull water out of the air. DOE names oversizing as the cause of clammy homes.
A blocked drain, a pan holding water, a duct sweating in a hot attic. The EPA says materials dried within 24 to 48 hours will in most cases not grow mold.
DOE puts typical losses at 20 to 30 percent. Whatever leaks out is replaced by humid attic air pulled in on the return side.
And what is actually worth testing for
EPA says test every home, whatever the zone. One in five Florida homes is over the action level. Cheap, and it is the state’s program — not an HVAC job.
A meter, not a lab. Ten minutes, about what a filter costs.
See it or smell it and you already know. The fix is the moisture, not another number on a report.
& Tune‑Up
Limited‑time offer
HVAC Refresh & Tune‑Up
A full seasonal check‑over of the system you already have — so small problems stay small.
Cannot be combined with any other offer. One per household.
Want both visits a year covered? Gold Maintenance Plan, $199 a year →

For plan members
20% Off Indoor Air Quality Products
Gold Maintenance Plan members get 20% off indoor air quality products and 10% off parts, plus two maintenance visits a year, for $199 a year. We still measure first and only recommend a product that will help.
- 2 maintenance visits a year
- 10% off parts
- 20% off indoor air quality products
- Your filter changed at every visit (you supply it)
UV Light HVAC and Filtration
How Indoor Air Quality Testing Works
No mystery, no pressure, and no work done before you’ve agreed to it.
A drain backing up, a pan holding water, a duct sweating in the attic, a return pulling air from somewhere it should not. The EPA is blunt that filtration supplements source control rather than replacing it, so that is where we start.
A better filter is not free. The EPA warns it has to be checked against the existing ductwork so airflow is not impeded. We take a static pressure reading, because a filter that chokes the airflow can freeze a coil.
Sometimes that is the duct cleaning. Sometimes it is the purifier, the ozone box or the UV lamp. You get the honest version, in writing, and a number for whatever is genuinely left.
The honest part
Air Purifiers, Ozone and UV Lights: What the EPA Says
Indoor air quality is the easiest thing in this trade to sell, because nobody can see it. Here is the standard pitch, beside what the federal agencies that actually study this say about it.
What you might hear
What we’ll tell you
Local Jacksonville HVAC Conditions
Why Jacksonville Air Is a Moisture Problem First
Duval County sits in a warm-humid climate zone, and that single fact drives nearly everything on this page. Four places it shows up, and what each one is doing to the air in your house.

Duval County is Climate Zone 2A under the Florida Energy Code — warm-humid. The Department of Energy notes the air conditioner alone may not hold relative humidity below 60 percent in this climate. That is the design condition here, not a failing system.
An oversized system satisfies the thermostat before the coil runs long enough to pull water out of the air. Department of Energy guidance is explicit: a dehumidifier must not paper over oversized equipment, and Manual J sizing comes first.
The Department of Energy puts typical duct losses at 20 to 30 percent. Florida treats that as measurable: the energy code requires pressure testing at 25 pascals and caps leakage at 4 cfm per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area.
Once a dwelling tests tighter than three air changes per hour, the Florida Energy Code requires whole-house mechanical ventilation. Outside air here arrives humid, which is why Florida Solar Energy Center researchers found supplemental dehumidification is still needed in high-performance homes.
Whole House Air Purifier Installation
Whole-House Dehumidifiers, Filtration, Ventilation and Ducts
Humidity readings and the mechanical reason behind them. Filter selection measured against your system rather than guessed at. Condensate and drainage faults. Duct leakage and sealing. Ventilation for houses built too tight to breathe on their own. And a straight answer on the add-ons that get sold alongside all of it.
Licensed & Insured, FL CAC036942
Licensed, Insured Indoor Air Quality Technicians
A working air conditioner is comfort. A system looked after properly is something closer to peace of mind — especially in a Jacksonville August, and especially with small people in the house.
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Vetted people in your home
Florida state certified — licence CAC036942 — fully insured, and BBB accredited at an A+ rating. The same small crew every time, not a rotating list of subcontractors.
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The air they breathe all day
Florida humidity does not just make a house uncomfortable — it feeds what grows in it. Filtration, purification and humidity control keep the air in your rooms clean as well as cold.
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Fixed right the first time
We show you the failed part, quote the whole number before we start, then test the system and clean up behind us. Our work is guaranteed — that is the whole point of the name on the truck.
Paul came out and replaced our blower motor and saved the day. He fielded my call on Sunday evening, then did the service Monday afternoon. Friendly, efficient, and professional.
Read on Google →After years of feeling vulnerable to dishonest HVAC companies, a neighbor put me in touch. He quickly earned my trust — quick to return calls, reasonable rates, and he’s never tried to sell me things I don’t need.
Read on Google →Beyond reproach. Prompt, professional, and had the problem diagnosed and repaired the same day. Integrity, honesty and great customer service.
Read on Google →We’ve used him for everything from small tweaks to replacing our entire unit. Quick, reliable, honest, and clean — and he beat the prices of every competitor. Yes, we priced out seven.
Read on Google →Fast and efficient, unbelievably affordable pricing. He quickly figures out the problem and explains it in a way anyone can understand. You automatically feel like you can trust him.
Read on Google →Our A/C went down and the team showed up Monday morning first thing. We had cool air flowing in no time. The crew was fast, clean, and finished under time.
Read on Google →They replaced our entire AC unit and did some duct work. Professional staff and excellent communication. Top quality service and work!
Read on Google →Mike and the team were very professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. The price was not unreasonable. So happy we found this company — we know we will be taken care of in the years to come.
Read on Google →Just had Great Dane install a new A/C in my home. Mike came to my home, saw what I had, and I told him what I wanted installed. There was absolutely no sales pressure.
Read on Google →Mike came out and gave an estimate with no fluff, which is what I like. He was honest and professional. The team that installed the unit worked well together and the work performed was stellar!
Read on Google →My experience was beyond my expectations. They did an amazing job replacing my antique air conditioner! Mike gave me a great quote and DJ and his son completed this challenging job amazingly well.
Read on Google →Mike with Great Dane did the HVAC for an addition I am the GC on in Atlantic Beach. Extremely professional and great prices.
Read on Google →Our outdated A/C system went down for good and I had called multiple other companies with little to no response. I called Great Dane and Mike was at my house in less than 15 minutes.
Read on Google →So glad I went with Great Dane to service my a/c. I highly recommend Quentin, who serviced the unit. He is extremely knowledgeable, highly competent, and up front about potential issues.
Read on Google →I’d been without A/C for quite some time. It was amazing — the care and concern that Mike (and MJ & Brandon) had about my situation. I know I chose the right company.
Read on Google →AC out? We can come today.
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Serving the Jacksonville, FL area
Indoor Air Quality Near You
Fast, honest HVAC service across Jacksonville, Duval County and the surrounding Northeast Florida communities.
Indoor air quality FAQ
Indoor Air Quality Questions: Humidity, Filters and Purifiers
Straight answers, no jargon — including the ones that cost us money to answer honestly.
What should the humidity in my house actually be?
The EPA tells homeowners to keep indoor relative humidity below 60 percent, ideally between 30 and 50. The CDC puts it slightly tighter, advising no higher than 50 percent all day long and naming the air conditioner and the dehumidifier as the tools for holding it there. Anywhere in the 45 to 55 band is a sensible target for a Jacksonville house. A cheap hygrometer will tell you where you actually are in about ten minutes, and it is the single most useful thing you can do before calling anybody.
My house is cold but it feels sticky. What is wrong?
Usually the system is oversized for the house. It cools the air quickly, the thermostat is satisfied, the compressor shuts off, and the coil never runs long enough to condense much water out. The Department of Energy names oversizing directly as the reason this produces clammy homes. It can also be a blower left running continuously, which re-evaporates moisture off a wet coil back into the house between cycles.
Will a whole-house dehumidifier fix it?
Often it helps a great deal, and we will tell you honestly what it will and will not do. Florida Solar Energy Center work presented through a Department of Energy program found supplemental dehumidification cut hours above 60 percent relative humidity from roughly 30 percent of the year to about 15 — a real improvement, not an elimination. The same research found that a correctly sized fixed-capacity system generally controls humidity well in a typical home, so the first question is always whether yours is sized right. DOE guidance is explicit that a dehumidifier should not be used to cover for oversized equipment or a leaky house.
What MERV rating should I be using?
The EPA recommendation is a filter rated at least MERV 13, or as high as your system will accommodate. The rating comes from ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 52.2, which scores filters from MERV 1 to 16 on average removal across three particle size ranges. The reason 13 is the number people quote: only MERV 13 and above must demonstrate at least 50 percent removal of particles in the 0.3 to 1 micrometer range, where MERV 11 only has to reach 20 percent.
Can I just fit the highest MERV filter I can find?
Not without checking first. The EPA warns that selecting any higher-efficiency filter must take into account its compatibility with the existing ducted system, so that airflow is not impeded by the added resistance, and says a trained professional may need to modify the system to accommodate one. A filter that chokes the airflow can freeze a coil and cost you a compressor, which is an expensive way to buy cleaner air. We measure static pressure rather than guessing.
How often should I change the filter?
ENERGY STAR maintenance guidance says to inspect, clean or change air filters once a month. The EPA notes that manufacturers typically recommend replacement every 60 to 90 days. In a Jacksonville summer, with pets and the system running most of the day, monthly is the realistic answer.
Do air purifiers get rid of mold?
No, and the EPA says so directly: air cleaners and HVAC filters do not solve mold problems, because they do not address the moisture causing the growth. The agency also states plainly that no air cleaner or filter eliminates all pollutants, and that filtration supplements source control and ventilation rather than replacing either. Find the water first. Everything else is downstream of that.
Are ozone generators or ionizers worth buying?
No agency of the federal government has approved ozone generators for use in occupied spaces, and the EPA states that at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone is generally ineffective at controlling indoor air pollution. The agency separately cautions that electrostatic precipitators, ionizers, plasma air cleaners and UV lights without adequate lamp coatings may emit ozone themselves. We do not sell ozone generators or ionizers.
Do UV lights actually work?
Partly, and not the way they are usually sold. The EPA says properly designed ultraviolet germicidal systems may destroy some organisms growing on moist surfaces inside the equipment, but that typical units used in homes have limited effectiveness in killing bacteria and molds, since effective destruction of most mold and bacterial spores requires far higher exposure than a home unit provides. It also notes that dead mold spores can still produce allergic reactions. Worth something on a wet coil. Not a whole-house answer. We install UV lights; ask us whether one makes sense for your system.
What about a portable air purifier for one room?
Reasonable for a single room, and the number to compare is CADR, the clean air delivery rate. The EPA publishes a sizing table — roughly 65 cfm minimum for a 100 square foot room and 325 cfm for 500 square feet, at eight-foot ceilings. Worth knowing that CADR rates particle removal only, not gases, so it tells you nothing about odors or fumes.
Is there a discount on air quality products?
Yes, for Gold Maintenance Plan members: 20% off indoor air quality products. The plan is $199 a year and includes two maintenance visits. We still measure first and only recommend a product that will help.
Should I have my ducts cleaned?
Maybe, and the honest answer is that nobody can tell you over the phone. The EPA offers no blanket recommendation on duct cleaning and states it has never been shown to actually prevent health problems. It does list conditions that warrant it: substantial visible mold growth inside hard-surface ducts, vermin infestation, or ducts so clogged with excessive dust and debris that particles are actually being released into the home from the registers. We look first, and we show you what we find either way.
Do leaky ducts affect the air, or only the power bill?
Both. The Department of Energy puts typical losses at 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through the duct system. In a vented Jacksonville attic, air lost on the supply side has to be replaced by air drawn in on the return side, and that make-up air comes from wherever the leak happens to be — attic, wall cavity, crawl space. Florida treats duct leakage as something measurable: the energy code requires pressure testing at 25 pascals and caps postconstruction leakage at 4 cfm per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area.
My house is new and tight. Do I need ventilation?
Possibly, and the code sets the trigger. Under the Florida Energy Code, dwelling units with an air leakage rate less than three air changes per hour must be provided with whole-house mechanical ventilation. ASHRAE Standard 62.2 is the consensus residential standard covering dwelling-unit ventilation, local mechanical exhaust and source control. The Florida wrinkle is that the outside air you are bringing in is humid, so it has to be conditioned rather than merely introduced.
Do I need a carbon monoxide alarm if my heat is electric?
Quite possibly, yes. Florida Statute 553.885 requires an approved operational carbon monoxide alarm within 10 feet of each room used for sleeping purposes, in every separate building or addition constructed on or after 1 July 2008 that has a fossil-fuel-burning heater or appliance, a fireplace, an attached garage, or another feature that emits carbon monoxide as a byproduct of combustion. The attached-garage trigger is the one that surprises people whose HVAC is entirely electric.
Should I test for radon in Jacksonville?
Yes, and it is inexpensive. The EPA advises testing every home regardless of the radon zone it sits in, fixing at 4 pCi/L or above and considering a fix between 2 and 4. Duval sits in a lower-potential zone, but the Florida Department of Health reports that one in five Florida residences has radon above the EPA action level, and that elevated levels have been found in all building types in the state. Radon mitigation is its own trade with its own licensing — we will point you at the state program rather than pretend it is an HVAC job.
